While you're here
Istanbul, with love
See
Worth your time
Old city
The historic peninsula
Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and Topkapı Palace all stand within a few minutes' walk of each other. Arrive at opening time (or just after Friday prayers end) to see them gently.
Markets
The bazaars
The Grand Bazaar for tiles, textiles and gold; the Spice Bazaar for saffron, lokum and dried fruit. Both are good fun to wander and completely normal to leave empty-handed.
On the water
A Bosphorus crossing
The short commuter ferry to Kadıköy, at sunset, with a glass of çay in hand — the most beautiful 20 minutes in the city, for the price of a bus ticket.
Eat
Come hungry
Eat
A meyhane evening
Order rakı or wine, meze arrives in waves, and the fish is grilled simply. Beyoğlu and Kadıköy are full of good meyhanes — ask us for our personal list.
Snack
Street classics
Simit from the cart in the morning, balık ekmek (grilled fish in bread) by the Galata Bridge, and a dollop of dondurma from a salesman who will absolutely tease you first.
Sweet
Coffee & dessert
Turkish coffee comes thick and tiny, never to the last sip. Baklava is best where the pastry turns over daily — Karaköy Güllüoğlu is the classic.
Say it kindly
A little Turkish
- MerhabaHello
- Teşekkür ederimThank you
- LütfenPlease
- GünaydınGood morning
- Afiyet olsunEnjoy your meal
- Nerede?Where is...?
Gentle etiquette
Small courtesies
- · At mosques, shoulders and knees are covered; women bring a light scarf. Shoes come off at the entrance.
- · Accept the tea when it's offered — declining is rarely the point.
- · Right hand for giving and receiving; a slight nod goes a long way.
- · Bargain warmly in the bazaars, not at all in shops and restaurants.